EXPN.com Interviews Chris Malloy
EXPN.com recently sat downwith Chris Malloy for a new interview and below is just a sample of what he had to say. To watch the interview and see Chris in action, click here.
Chris Malloy is a surfing archetype-the kind of globetrotting, wave-discovering swashbuckler that defined the sport before things like a "sponsorship" or a "Nine Time World Champion" existed. For the better part of 20 years, Malloy has spent more time traveling than he's spent at his home near Ventura, California. Now 36 and building a family, Malloy's cutting back a bit. "I've been doing this since I was about 18," he says. "I used to be in one place for, at the most, two months. Now I'm home a lot-at least six months out of the year."
Racking up more travel time in a year than most surfers do in a life, Malloy has found himself way off the beaten surf map. Ask him how many countries he's visited and he'll begin pointing to an imaginary map like a sixth grader taking a geography test. He knows 10 times as many countries as most sixth graders, but he still can't give you an accurate answer. What he can tell you, however, is a few pointers on how to make surf travel easier. For example: leave your bags at the airport.
"If you don't want to deal with your boards, just get in the car and leave," he says. "They think they got your boards too late, and it's their fault. They usually show up at your door the next day."
Also, never show fear: "When you get brought to secondary at customs, the first thing you should say to the guy is, 'Where's the dog? This is so cool!' And they instantly go, 'Get out of here.' Because no one who's carrying anything illegal would ever ask that kind question. If they think you're actually excited to be there, they'll just let you go."
See? When it comes to surf travel, no one's done more thangs than Chris Malloy. So listen up, because he's not usually around to dispense such advice. "The last eight years, we've been really looking for places no one wants to go. There's probably 15,000 good waves left that haven't been surfed."