Watch Band 101: A Complete Guide to Watch Straps and Bracelets

When it comes to the parts of a watch and the specific function each one performs, the role the watch band plays is pretty obvious. It's that thing that keeps the watch on your wrist, of course.

But there's so much more to watch straps than that!

Keep reading to learn everything you could possibly ever want to know about watch straps.

A collection of Nixon watch bands sits on a wooden table.

What are Watch Bands?

The obvious answer is that watch bands are the part of a watch that keep the watch on your wrist. Watch bands can be made from a variety of materials including leather, silicone and stainless steel, to name a few.

The not-so-obvious answer to the question "what is a watch band?", is that the watch band is one of the most essential aesthetic pieces of a watch.

Bands vs Bracelets

So far, we've only used the terms "watch band" and "watch strap". And from here on out, we'll be using a different term more often: "bracelet".

We use the term "bracelet" for a specific purpose. When we use "bracelet" instead of "strap" or "band", that means we're referencing a metal watch band, usually made of stainless steel.

Speaking of bracelets, let's get into all of the work that goes into making a watch bracelet that you have maybe never even considered.

Compared to a leather or silicone watch strap, stainless steel watch bracelets are complex. Non-metal watch bands generally have fewer parts and variations outside of color and material. But metal watch bracelets have many.

We'll get into those bracelet variations shortly. First, let's go over some basic metal watch bracelet anatomy and introduce a few terms we'll be using throughout this post.

Read More: Types of Watch Band Straps & Clasps Explained

Basic Watch Bracelet Anatomy

There are 10 parts of a watch bracelet we want to cover here before we move on to the different variations you'll encounter in the world of watches.

  1. Watch Clasp Spring Bar: Secures the end of a watch band to the clasp.
  2. Micro Holes: Flexible length adjustment found on the side of some watch clasps.
  3. Watch Clasp: Unfolds and extends the length of a watch bracelet to allow the band to easily be put on or taken off.
  4. Tail Short End Spring Bar: Connection piece between the ending tail of the bracelet and the clasp.
  5. Clasp Spring Bar Hole: Connects the clasp to the watch band.
  6. Removable Link Screws: Used to add and/or remove links from the band to adjust the length of the bracelet. Not all links are removable.
  7. The Link: One of many equal parts of the bracelet that can extend or shorten it. Links can all be independent or "faux" style.
  8. End Piece / End Link: Link closest to the case and attaches to it with an end link spring bar.
  9. End Link Spring Bar: Holds bracelet to the watch case.
  10. End Piece Screw: Holds the end link to the second link. This link can be fixed or removable.

5 Most Common Types of Watch Bracelet

1. Oyster Watch Bracelets

The 3-link Oyster bracelet, which gets its name from the 1926 "Oyster" Rolex watch on which it was first introduced, is the most popular and common bracelet type. This popularity is attributable to the durability of the bracelet. A big center link bar strengthens the links and minimizes band stretching over time.

You can see the Oyster bracelet on many Nixon stainless steel watches. Here is a view of one such watch strap on the Nixon Sentry

 

Oyster bracelet of the Nixon Sentry

 

2. Jubilee Watch Bracelets

A more luxurious band variation than the Oyster is the "Jubilee". Jubilee metal watch straps are 5-link bracelets that catch light elegantly and more closely mimic jewelry. Because it has more links, it moves more smoothly around the wrist and is more comfortable than many other metal watch band options.

You can see a Jubilee bracelet on the Nixon Supremacy

 

Jubilee metal watch bracelet of the Nixon Supremacy

 

3. Mesh (Milanese) Watch Bracelets

One of the most comfortable metal watch band types is the Milanese mesh bracelet. This bracelet type was initially designed to endure the rigors of deep-sea diving and its construction, with numerous small gaps in the chain, promotes airflow. 

The Siren Milanese is an example of a Nixon watch with this metal band type.

 

Milanese mesh watch bracelet of the Siren watch

 

4. Beads of Rice Watch Bracelets

This bracelet type gets its name from its appearance. It is light, comfortable and conforming to the wrist. Nixon currently doesn't carry any watches that utilize a "Beads of Rice" watch bracelet.

5. Expanding Watch Bracelets

First introduced in 1959, the expanding metal watch bracelet is reminiscent of a previous era. They are the ultimate in comfort and flexibility and, unlike the other types on this list, do not have a clasp construction. Nixon currently does not sell any watches with an expanding watch bracelet.

Within some of the bracelet types covered above, there are even style variations that differentiate them. Let's quickly look at a few of these variations that are commonly used.

Bracelet Styles

Diagram showing the difference between solid and folded watch bracelet styles
  • Solid Style: Solid style bracelets, like on the Sentry above on the left, utilize a single piece of continuous metal for the watch strap. This bracelet requires the wearer to slide the hand through the strap to put the watch on.
  • Folded: Folded bracelet styles, like on the Time Teller above on the right, use a bracelet that connects via a clasp. Watches that use this bracelet type can be placed directly on the wrist and secured with the clasp.

End Link Types

Diagram showing the two main types of watch bracelet end links
  • Straight Cut: Pictured at the top of the above image, this end link type is the most common. It swings freely from the watch case, leaving a gap between the watch case and the end link.
  • Integrated: Pictured at the bottom of the above image, this end link type is considered a more elevated design. It is curved to snugly fit against the watch case and does not swing freely from the watch case.

Watch Bracelet Color Processes

  • Plated: Plated color processes are most common on Nixon stainless steel watches. This process creates a durable and lasting color. It is often used for colors like gold, black and gunmetal.
  • Painted: Watch bracelets that are painted are not as color-durable as plated bracelets. But a much wider range of colors is possible. 
  • Others: Other common bracelet color processes include DLC coating, cerakote and galvanized. 

Watch Bracelet Finishes

Finishing of watch bracelets gives watches a distinct look and feel. Finishing can be done in a number of ways, including:

  • Brushed
  • Polished
  • Matte / sandblasted
  • A combination of the above

Watch Bracelet Attachment Types

  • Spring Bar
  • Quick Release Spring Bar
  • Screw Bar

Now that we've covered a lot of the basics regarding watch bracelets, let's finish by covering a specific mechanism of this watch part: the watch clasp. 

Watch Bracelet Clasps

Clasps are one of the most important parts of any watch bracelet. That's how the watch gets secured to your wrist, after all.

Here are the main types of watch bracelet clasps you'll see and a little information about each. 

Deployment clasp on the Nixon 51-30 Chrono

Deployment Clasp

Butterfly deployment clasp on the Nixon Supremacy

Butterfly Deployment Clasp

Hidden folding deployment clasp on the Nixon Time Teller Acetate

Hidden Folding Deployment Clasp

Hook clasp on the Nixon Time Teller

Hook Clasp

  • Deployment: This clasp type has a folding metal buckle attached to the metal watch strap. It's considered a more secure bracelet because if the clasp should open somehow, the watch would still be attached to your wrist.
  • Butterfly Deployment: Two separate deployment clasps fold into each other and meet at a joint. It uses two pushers at the sides of the joint to open.
  • Hidden Folding Deployment: This clasp type is normally a slimmer option and can be found on a few women's watches at Nixon. The form of this clasp hides the large clasp mechanism behind the strap.
  • Hook Clasp: Hook clasps are found on 2-piece watch straps. These can be a bit trickier to put on and if the clasp becomes loose, the watch will completely fall of the wrist. But the upside of this clasp type is it is adjustable without needing any link removal tools.

Watch Bands in Conclusion

In conclusion, the world of watch straps and bracelets is as diverse and intricate as the timepieces they accompany. By having a better understanding of the components and craftsmanship behind watch straps, hopefully you can now make more informed purchasing decisions when it comes to finding your next watch or replacing a watch band on an existing watch.